Avionics and Inlet Farings

This weekend was a crazy weekend on the plane.   I don’t even know where to start.  Friday I received my oil cooler from Niagra (20006A Model) and a huge bunch of avionics from Dynon.  Basically I got everything from Dynon in one package, so over the next few weeks will start digging all of that.  The oil cooler is going to be a problem, its huge but was recommended by Aerosport power..   It has 13 oil bays in it and is the same one used for the 6 cylinder 250 horsepower engine.   So I am pretty sure I can get by with a smaller one, I am thinking that 11 bays would do the trick and fit much better in my application.  I’ll follow up with Aerosport and the oil cooler company tomorrow.    

This discouraging oil cooler news didn't slow me down though, I really got through a lot this weekend.   The Inlet farings are basically done, I epoxied them in place and used some 2 part expanding foam under them to shape them the best possible shape for the baffles.  This piece of work is more art than construction, but I got through it.  Now all I have left to do is some final sanding and a couple layups of fiberglass over the foam and I am finished with them.  Also, I have some additional trimming on the front baffles, but that will happen over time.

After working with the foam on the cowling, I was ready to work on something that wasn’t pink..   So I started looking at the avionics and was able to install the GTN 650 Antenna.  I made a .060 back plate that has nutplates on it, and is separately rivted to the skin.  This makes for easy install from the outside.  I chose this location because it is per spec from Garmin, and is far enough away from the ADAHRS so no interference with the Dynon..

I also Installed the Pitch Autopilot servo and  the ADAHRs with Brass Screws.   You can’t use any steel near the ADAHRs because it will interfere with the sensitivity of the compass.  I still have work to do on these, but the big brush strokes are done.   I need to install the terminal on the antenna cable, and connect the autopilot servo and the ADAHRsto the Dynon network, but I am pretty happy with getting all this done.

I am just realizing now that I don't have pictures of the autopilot servo install, but  you will see that in future pics I am sure..

Its funny how some parts of the build like the baffles take forever, but then you start working on other aspects and you can move along seamingly fast. 

Baffles and Inlet Farings

I have been working on the baffles like crazy..   Hard to cover all the exact steps, but the end goal is to get them cut down so that when the top cowling is on, they are about 3/8 -1/2 inch below the cowling all the way around.  This process is easier said than done, but does include a lot of snipping the top edges of the baffles as you edge closer to a good fit.  Once close enough the common practice is to put paperclips around the baffles standing tall about ¾ inch or so, then putting the top canopy on.  Measuring from the top of the compressed paperclips gives you a good idea of where to make the final cut for the Baffles.

After this is complete you need to insert the front inlet farings into the to top cowl and start cutting down the front of the baffles to clear the farings.   I centered the farings so that both the center baffle and outer baffles need to be cut down.   I will need to add a bit of foam filler to make a good fit at the inside of the fairings in the center, but will show pics of that later.

Here are some pics of the baffles all cut down including the front inlet faring area.   I will be epoxying the farings on shortly and filling them so I can get a final baffle fit before moving onto other parts of the project.

Baffles and Induction filter

Just posting a couple new pics showing how the front Ramps fit into the bottom cowl.  Also, the mechanism that holds in the air filter.  I am very happy how this turned out, but it sure was a lot of work getting here.   I also over the weekend cut down the baffles so that I can fit the top cowl on.  No pics of this today, but I’ll try to grab some in the next couple posts.  I haven’t cut down the front edge baffles for the inlet farings..   I will probably work on this over the next couple days. 

More Baffles and Snorkel

Continuing on the baffles I have pretty much wrapped up the Snorkel (induction) at this point.   Just some future paint and connecting the cable to the push/pull lever in the cockpit.  This was a lot of work, but progressing slowly each night has worked great.  Also including a pic of the clips and stiffeners that have been riveted to the rear baffles.  

And the baffle behind cylinder 3 has a support that was too long.   Below is a picture trying to show the issue.  I think it is because the Superior cylinders do not taper so are fairly thick at the base.  So I fabbed up a second support and riveted it in place.  Holds perfectly.  Also, I picked up some small ¾ inch blast tube stand offs from the forums..  Basically this one is in place in front of Cylinder 1 and will blast air on the regulator component of the alternator. 

More work on Front Ramps and Snorkel

This weekend I really dug into the front ramps and snorkel.  To limit the number of pieces I have been dealing with I primed and started to rivet the baffles together.  The front ramps were at a point where I figured I could rivet them now and not get in trouble later, but I did leave several rivet holes open in case I need to drill some out later.  These went together pretty well and now much fewer pieces and fewer clecos to mess with...  I also did a few things not pictured like initial fitting of the Blast tube duct for the alternator, and small clips on the baffles in the center section, but you will see those in future posts I am sure.

Most of my work was on the induction snorkel.  I pretty much fit and riveted all the filter mount angles to it, except for the outer most angle.  I will drill that one once I do a bit more research.  I used a bit of proseal in the seam and also in the gaps between the metal junction to ensure no air gets in without going through the filter.  I also glassed in the bubble made for the alternator and cut the hole for the emergency air bypass which is used to allow air in from the engine compartment in case my air filter gets iced up or otherwise blocked in flight.  This took a few iterations of fiberglass work and “flox”, which mixed with the fiberglass and is super strong, so that you can actually pull rivets into it.   Also, it makes up for where the snorkel assembly isn’t perfectly flat, allowing the bypass collar to be set in flush.  Pictures will help explain that one.   Once this all dried, I put a bit of filler around it and will sand everything down later today.

I realize the above fiberglass isn't that pretty at this stage, but will be sanded and painted later so realize it is built well and will look good after a few more iterations.  ;-)

Lots of work done, but not lots to show for it.

Front Baffle Ramps (left side induction filter)

I worked about 8 hours just to get to this one picture.   These baffles are going to do me in I think.   It is such slow going.  Nothing can be measured, it just has to be trimmed until it fits.   Here I spent time getting the baffle ramp to line up with the cowling, I still need to lower it about ¼ inch.  Then cutting the square for the filter to exactly fit when it is tight in the fiberglass induction tube.  Also, to be able to get the cowling on and off was impossible until I cut back the ramp to the point to slip past it.  Just amazing the details involved in this little piece of work.   I probably have about 75% of this piece behind me now which is good.  The rest of the baffles should be a bit easier..

Baffles and Horizontal Induction (Snorkel)

Continuing with the baffles I decided it was time to start looking at the horizontal induction.   Most builders do this much later in the build, but I figure it is a tough part which surprises them late in the game, so I wanted to get through this early while I am still waiting on my avionics.

The Horizontal induction is cool, because it means my lower cowl is smooth, unlike many RVs that have a snout there to induct air for the engine.   In my case, the air is taken in through the same two forward holes in the cowling that allow for cooling.   But in order to achieve this you  need to install a snorkel in the inlet ramp that pulls air through a filter down to the horizontal induction.   So to get this snorkel to fit, there were lugs I had to cut of the starter, also the alternator bracket interfered so I had to cut a hole through the snorkel, which will be glassed in later.   The mixture control comes close to the snorkel when it is in  full lean position which is only on shut down, so I will keep an eye on this and determine if I need to cut into the snorkel for better clearance here as well.

After removing all obstructions I was able to center the snorkel on the air intake and drill the holes to fix it where it needs to be.  By the end I had cleaned up the circular mount cutting it to the same square as the air intake.  I also sanded the surface where the holes are flat so that the bolts have something to grab onto.