Panel Work

I haven’t cut the panel yet, but I decided I wanted to work on the switches on the left side since they seemed pretty straight forward.  These switches include the Start Button, Master/Alt switch, Electronic ignition, Magneto, and avionics switch which really just takes advantage of the VP-X.

I immediately found these switches weren't as straight forward as I hoped..   Here is a quick explanation...  The Magneto, which is a shielded wire where the shield is grounded to the mag case, the switch end (at the panel) needs a pick line with a resistor coming off the power side which sends pulses to the Dynon to be used for the Tach reading.  The lightspeed unit itself also provides RPM info to the Dynon which will be hooked up later. 

The Master switch uses a loop to make the DPDT (on, on, on) switch act like two switches (one for batt and one for alt field).  I have it so that battery comes on first, then the alt field.  So the alt field can't be turned on without the battery on. 

The Start button has three wires due to my special Honda S-2000 start button discussed earlier in this thread...  Its hooked up but I haven't tested it yet.  Need to make sure all is clear with the VP-X before I go that far..

All in all I am making progress though..  I have everything done except for the Electronic ignition (Lightspeed) switch.    Hopefully I will get to that this weekend.   It’s a switch that is inline between the lightspeed box and the breaker, basically the shield bypasses the switch and the power wire is what becomes switched.  Then the 18 gauge shielded wire goes to the 5 amp breaker on the other side of the panel.  (will be coming soon)

Electrical.. Skyview Network Starter Annunciator

I have family in town, so progress has slowed a bit.  Before they got here and while they have been here I have snuck out a few times and worked on a few things.   First off I started the skyview network.  This is 9 wires attached through D Sub connectors that connect in series to all the Skyview components.  Dynon supplies splitters and adapters, but if you are careful, you can create your own connections by doubling up the wires in a D Sub Pin.   Here I have the ARINC (GPS) connected to the EMS (Engine monitor), then pushed on through to the panel where it will connect to the 10 inch Skyview Display.

I also completed my first “resistor” solder project..   This attaches right at the starter contactor and the resistor protects the wire somewhat like a fuse or a fusible link.   You will see later on that I will create a few fusible links to protect other wires.   Basically this senses the 12 volts from the starter contactor to alert the V-PX when the starter is engaged and I will be able to see an indication on the skyview.

Various electrical and firewall forward

I started off by making sure I avoid one of the worse things that could happen in the garage..  J   Not only did I disconnect the starter lead, but I taped it up so that there is no way that contact could be made during any testing of the electrical system.  To have the starter fire off in the garage would be a regrettable event for sure.  After that I temporarily connected the battery and fired the master switch, clunk went the solenoid, then on came the lights on the VP-X.   I hooked it up to my computer and did a quick download of my config file.  I was surprised that it didn’t need a firmware update, but at this point all seems current.  The VP-X is now ready to start running my electrical as I connect.

After that I did some organizing of the wiring, trying to figure out the best way to keep this clean and secure, I think I got it pretty good so far, but lots more wire to come.  All my components are still just clamped in place, except for the SkyView Backup battery and the main battery bus..  I have committed to these locations, but I still may shift or flip the battery bus down the road.  It is key to be able to secure the power coming straight from the battery at a location close to where it connects to the bus.  I am really nervous when it comes to committing to locations for these components, but sooner or later I will just have to.

I also finished up the Magneto blast tube and using some AWG 20 shielded wiring, separated the shield and ground then attached to the appropriate locations on the Mag.  I ran this to the left side of the panel where the majority of switches is going to be.  I have ran other various wire to that location as well, so am starting to get some pretty good wire bundles going at this point.

Front Ramps and Sniffle Valve

I wanted to show a couple pics of the front ramp on the passenger side of the plane.   Per plans I created a conical bend that gets mounted to help shape the baffles like the inlet area on the cowl.  On the pilot side I will most likely put nothing because I have such a snug fit of the air filter and side baffle as it stands.   The rubber material will create a slight bend and will fit in just fine.

I also placed the sniffle valve which is a one way valve designed to let extra fuel and water escape that might have been inducted.  This allows it to “leak” when on the ground, through a tube and out by the exhaust.  When the engine is running this valve is sealed up and everything even water goes through the engine with no problems.  I did put a bend in the tube as I will eventually put in an oil quick drain that will come right down the middle of the sniffle valve.   I am holding it in place in this pic.  Also, due to my exhaust set up I drilled a hole to support the sniffle tube in the exhaust hanger, vs the firewall flange.   My tube has to go below the hanger since it can’t fit between the exhaust and the flange.  You can kind of see it in this picture, right now it is just zip tied but I will replace with adel clamp when I get more in. 

Also, visible in this pic, I put a heat shield on the exhaust that will help deflect heat from the throttle cable.

Alternator blast tube and continued baffle seals

Updated:  After some advice from a fellow builder, I contacted Plane Power and got clarification on the blast tube.  They do indicate that it should be either across the back, or from the back.  I will modify my set up a bit to change the blast tube as initially I have it blowing on where air comes out from the internal fans.  The directions aren't very clear here so I am glad I asked, but my new blast tube will take a but of a "U" shape to bring the air more towards the back of the allternator.  New pics to come..

I took a couple minutes to think about how to secure the alternator blast tube.   Many times on experimental aircraft people over engineer the solution as I know I have done in the past..  In this case its always better to keep it as simple as possible.  Here I simply took some safety wire and a few loops secured the tube to the alternator strut.  It will hold it secure forever and is targeting the rear part of the alternator and regulator.   Seems good to me.

UPDATE:  I understand now that the blast tube is supposed to blow on the back of the alternator, so I have now created a reverse loop on the blast tube bringing air in directly from the back.   I'll try to get photos soon.

Also, I started messing around with the rubber seals again on the baffles.   I’m making progress, but not sure I am comfortable with it yet.  I’ll keep plugging away this weekend.

Misc FWF and Avionics

Over the last few days I have been trying to figure out what to do next.   I am pretty much beyond the instructions/plans now so am basically on my own with some help from other internet sites.  There are many ways to do things, but for me I decided to try test fit all my compnents behind the panel before I drill anything or run any permanent wiring.  The attached pic is what this looks like..   Crazy busy, but its good to be able to try to figure wire runs and make sure I have everything in a reasonable place before I start drilling and fitting.

I did take the plunge and drill an additional hole in the firewall for the alternate engine air cable.  The spot I picked is out of the way on the engine side, but yet gives me lots of options on the cockpit side for the cable run.   I think I will be happy with this location.  Oh, and anywhere you see zip ties, is most likely temporary.  These will be replaced with appropriate fasteners down the road.

I also am hoping to get some final steps completed on the Baffles, hoping to get to paint at least the rear baffles this weekend.  For now I am drilling some blast tube holes and locating runs for the electric ignition and plug wires etc.  Also starting to work on the rubber air seal material, which is a completely different experience.

Oil Breather Tube

I had houseguests this weekend, so didn’t get as far as I had hoped, but I did find a unique solution for the oil breather tube.  Problem with the 90 degree spin on oil filter is that you can’t use the Van’s recommended breather tube solution because the oil filter is in the way.   I was able to reach a solution by purchasing some 5/8 inch rubber fuel tube.  Since the exit on the engine is ¾ and the flared end of the provided aluminum tube is ¾ I used the vans rubber tube for the first connection.  Then cut the aluminum tube a couple inches below where the flare ended so that I could transition the ¾ tube down to the 5/8 inch tube.  So a few extra hose clamps, but a tight and effective solution that doesn’t touch the oil filter or the engine mount, and is solid using the same lower half of the Van’s solution.

Here are some pics.  Note than on the last pic, the exhaust hanger tube is going to be replaced.  Just not comfortable with that set up.  But in the pic you should be looking at the oil breather tube anyway, so no harm done. :-)